Trad Dad, Pebble Wrestler, Quickdraw Afficionado - Whatever flavor of climbing you might find yourself drawn to, we aren’t here to judge or tell you how to train. But it’s important to acknowledge that each climbing discipline requires a unique skill set. While it may seem silly, bouldering and route climbing could be seen as two distinct sports. Yes, they both involve similar aspects such as movement on rock and finger strength—but, physiologically, they are very different. With this being said, switching between disciplines might require a little extra climbing training and maybe even an ego check.
Bouldering is like the Arnold Schwarzenegger of climbing—it requires short bursts of high-intensity work, greater finger strength, pulling power, and body tension. Rope climbing is more like cross-country skier Jessie Diggins—you still need raw power, but the reliance is more on endurance, efficiency, technique, and mental strength.
Stepping Out of Your Zone
The first thing you need to do when exploring a new climbing discipline is to accept that you might not succeed right away. If a V10 boulderer never ties into a rope, they will probably punt on a 100ft route they think will be a piece of cake. Coming to terms with checking your ego at the door will be a great opportunity to open yourself up to learning a new skill and improving as a climber.
For the actual climbing training aspect, evaluate what your current strengths are in the climbing discipline you are into more. Depending on the unique skill set required for the type of climbing you want to try, determine what training you need to focus on most to progress.
Going from bouldering to sport climbing is going to require some steady-state training, efficiency work, and a strong head game. Get outside and start climbing a lot of pitches. Disregard the grade and whether you send or not, the goal here is to give yourself time to build endurance and practice technique. Volume will also provide the opportunity to practice falling, which could be a big mental obstacle if you don’t do it regularly.
The transition from sport to bouldering might not be as steep as what was just described above. Developing raw power and strength can happen pretty quickly. Boulderers can level up their climbing by doing: 1) near-limit movements on the wall, 2) brief max-strength/power exercises, and 3) power-endurance training.
These concepts also apply if you are switching things up depending on the outdoor seasons. If switching up climbing disciplines between seasons is where you’re at, check out this great year-long comprehensive training guide put together by climbing coach Neil Gresham: A Full Year of Training—This Step-By-Step Weekly Plan Is All You Need To Know
Featured Climbing Training Gear
Maverick: The on-the-go, bring it anywhere hangboard. On a family road trip to keep your fingers in shape. We like to bring this to the crag with us to keep our fingers warm—without losing skin on mediocre warm-ups—at that steep, thuggy sport crag.
Pinch Blocks: Don't let pinch strength stop you from sending! Use it while hanging, lifting, and even for one arm hangs; featuring various widths for pinching, a 20 mm edge, and a jug.
The Rock-Stah: Our handcrafted version of a traditional hangboard, with curving crimp rails to help alleviate unnecessary strain on your pulleys. Because ain’t no one got time for a finger injury…
The Rocket Wall: Available in 6’ and 8’ widths, it’s been tough for us to keep up with the demand for this innovative home climbing wall solution. Slightly overhanging, the Rocket Wall is big enough to set routes on, or to build a systems board.
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